If you want to experience true, uninterrupted quiet, go to the hills of Molise to a tiny town, preferably one with less than 2500 people. You’ll need a car and ideally someone who knows the roads but once you arrive you will marvel at the peace. On our Adriatic adventure, from Termoli we ventured inland towards the teeny town of Sant’Elia to visit the ancestral home of my dear companion. The drive was lovely and could certainly give Tuscany a run for its money: (unfortunately these photos were taken from the car, so they could be better, but it’s still pretty):
I have spent a not inconsiderable amount of time in teeny towns, but I have visited few truly tiny ones here in Italia. It was dead quiet; we felt compelled to lower our voices and nearly whisper to maintain the stillness, which was comically emphasized by the “no horn” sign on the marker leading into town:
We were with my dear companion’s aunt who was born in this little hamlet. She hadn’t been back in a few years, but despite that, while walking through the streets, everybody recognized her and was related to the family in one way or another. They all invited us for coffee or to their homes, insisted they would be offended if we didn’t accept. We stopped in at one relative’s house and in the ten minutes we were there were served an entire three-course meal with coffee. I typically don’t drink coffee after the early afternoon, but on this day I drank more after 5pm then I usually do in an entire day. The mythic Italian gregariousness and generosity was on full display.
Also on full display, the marvels of the wintery Italian sky. Sunsets lately have been out of control. Happy weekend and stay tuned for a few adventures in Lazio next week!