In our brief return to Rome we stayed in a lovely little Airbnb studio up in Monteverde which had the gorgeous patio you see above, which really made the rest of the place, which was teeny with the teeniest bathroom, bearable. Monteverde is in NO WAY the ideal tourist neighborhood for visiting Rome. It’s up the Janiculum from Trastevere and you have to rely on a lot of public transit to get out of the area (we were a five minute walk form the Quattro Venti train station. How many of you knew there was a Quattro Venti station? Probably zero) and there aren’t any “sights” per se aside from tremendous access to the Villa Pamphilj. But it met our needs and I think we would probably stay there again given the appropriate circumstances.
However, more generally: accommodations in Rome suck hugely. Hotels are typically expensive. B&Bs are of extremely varying quality, and Airbnb was also surprisingly and disappointingly expensive (we paid 30euro more a night for the place in Rome than we did the place in Lisbon, despite the fact that the Lisbon apartment was much bigger and more “centrally” located). And you all know how I feel about hostels. And since I have almost always stayed in rented apartments in Rome–either in Prati, Testaccio, or San Giovanni–I really don’t know how best to approach the issues of accommodations there. People have in the past asked me for recommendations, and I find it hard to tell them anything. I know of one decent, not outrageously priced hotel near the Vatican. And one slightly more expensive place in Monti. But to stay in those places you need to be budgeting 100+euro a night for your lodging, which is steep for my historically grad student budget, and they’re often booked up, because they’re decent and not outrageously priced.
Of course there are seasonable differences, but despite the extensive amount of time I’ve spent in Rome, I feel truly befuddled with regards to lodging there. Since I have a skewed perspective towards Rome, I’m curious how others have found their Roman accommodations. If you liked it and would recommend it? How it compared to other places you’ve stayed elsewhere in Italy? From my experience, Rome is WAY more expensive than EVERYWHERE else in Italy except Venice (and maybe some of the Alpine towns, those seem crazy spendy, but I haven’t really been up to the mountains). Oh Rome, why you gotta be like that?