Like the Chiesa Nuova and Sant’Ivo, San Nicola in Carcere is ridiculously centrally located in Rome in one of the most obvious sites in the city– just down the hill from the Campidoglio and next to the Teatro Marcello. I’d passed it about nine million times. And despite having been told YEARS ago that it… Read More Another Church I’d Meant to Visit for Forever: San Nicola in Carcere
There’s a main thoroughfare through the heart of central Rome that leads from Largo Argentina to the river and the Vatican. Lots of buses (and cars and everything else) take this road including the useful but infamous 87 and 40. Called the Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, the road zips by many of the loveliest church… Read More Roman Church Avoiding Stops Now!: Chiesa Nuova and Sant’Ivo
I went back to Rome in May and due to “busy” and “stuff” and “work” and “whatever” I haven’t written about it yet. BUT THAT ENDS TODAY. The basics: it was a ten-day trip, all in Rome (no day-trips or side jaunts or any such things). And the primary goal was to do a bunch… Read More Return to Rome! (four months ago…)
I’ve touched on this subject before, but I feel compelled to write about it again, because it drives me INSANE the way “women” travelers (always “women” travelers, never just travelers) are discussed in the American media, even by reputable sources that I like. Context: I’m a subscriber to National Geographic and therefore get eleventy-billion emails… Read More On Women Traveling Alone, or why every other article about this topic is TERRIBLE.
After more than two years and all my love, the exhibition of Big Bambu at MACRO Testaccio seems to be no more. According to the MACRO website the exhibition ended on March 11 and the amazing structure is being dismantled (although let’s be honest, sometimes websites are unreliable, but people currently in Rome have posted pictures of… Read More The Big Bambu exhibition at MACRO Testaccio has finally, finally ended for reals. Sad.
Sardinia and Italy call, and yet I’m still stuck in two-feet of snow with work and other responsibilities keeping me from dreaming Italian dreams. I’ve been silent for a few weeks and to stick a toe back in the water (heh), here’s a rock and the turquoise sea off of Sardinia and the brushy, shrubby land.… Read More Dreaming of Sardinia; will Winter ever End?!?
MACRO is Rome’s answer to contemporary art museums. There are two locations: MACRO is in the Salario neighborhood a bit outside of the historical center, but is still seriously easy to get to, while MACRO Testaccio is, as the name implies in Testaccio– one of my favorite neighborhoods in the city– and also rather easy to get… Read More MACRO: Rome’s Contemporary Art Museum. Let’s discuss.
Few people go to Rome for contemporary art. It’s just not really the draw. But there is actually a LOT of modern and contemporary art there, and a fair amount of really great/nutty/great contemporary architecture. MAXXI the national museum of 21st century art has both: modern art and great/nutty/great architecture. Designed by Zaha Hadid a fancy… Read More MAXXI: Everything that is Wrong with Contemporary Art Museums BUT it looks like spaceship, so wash?
I’m always surprised by how empty the Villa Farnesina is. It’s so centrally located (right on the edge of Trastevere), it’s got SUCH good stuff (so many Raphaels!), and it’s such a lovely, lovely, lovely space. And yet, every single time I’ve been there, there are crickets it’s so empty. Ok by me, because I… Read More The Villa Farnesina: drag yourself out of bed to enjoy a villa by your lonesome
If you’ve been following Museum Month(s Strike Back, Return of the Jedi With a Vengeance), you know that I’m a big fan of big, empty, museums. That I’ll eschew the blockbuster in favor of places that are what I call “pleasantly attended” (the Rodin Museum, Gemäldegalerie, and Brera all qualify) If you’re looking for that in… Read More The Etruscans get No Respect, No Respect. But the Villa Giulia is TOTALLY respectable