Here are a few more pictures of MURo because it’s fucking great. You can see on this main wall a wavy silver line. That line stretched all the way across all the murals on this section. It was not part of the original compositions and is what would traditionally be defined as “graffiti.” But that… Read More More photos from MURo because why the hell not?
MACRO is Rome’s answer to contemporary art museums. There are two locations: MACRO is in the Salario neighborhood a bit outside of the historical center, but is still seriously easy to get to, while MACRO Testaccio is, as the name implies in Testaccio– one of my favorite neighborhoods in the city– and also rather easy to get… Read More MACRO: Rome’s Contemporary Art Museum. Let’s discuss.
I’m always surprised by how empty the Villa Farnesina is. It’s so centrally located (right on the edge of Trastevere), it’s got SUCH good stuff (so many Raphaels!), and it’s such a lovely, lovely, lovely space. And yet, every single time I’ve been there, there are crickets it’s so empty. Ok by me, because I… Read More The Villa Farnesina: drag yourself out of bed to enjoy a villa by your lonesome
If you’ve been following Museum Month(s Strike Back, Return of the Jedi With a Vengeance), you know that I’m a big fan of big, empty, museums. That I’ll eschew the blockbuster in favor of places that are what I call “pleasantly attended” (the Rodin Museum, Gemäldegalerie, and Brera all qualify) If you’re looking for that in… Read More The Etruscans get No Respect, No Respect. But the Villa Giulia is TOTALLY respectable
The Castel Sant’Angelo is the backdrop for many, many, many picturesque Roman views over the Tiber, or towards St. Peter’s or whatever fancy scene. So fancy. But though it’s great for its photographic potentialities, I luuuuurve the Castel Sant’Angelo for being a MOST excellent museum/historical experience. I have written about how great it is a… Read More All the Love for the Castel Sant’Angelo. Lurve too. and Looooooooooooooove
So, let’s say the Capitoline Museum isn’t really your bag, but you want to see some MOST excellent old stuff. May I suggest one of the branches of the National Roman Museum (Museo Nazionale Romano)? There are four branches of these archaeology museums: the Palazzo Massimo alle Terme, the Palazzo Altemps, the Crypta Balbi, and the… Read More The National Museums in Rome: Confusing, but not really. Mostly GREAT.
Lots of people, when they visit Rome go up the huge Capitoline steps to see the Marcus Aurelius equestrian monument, the fancy pavement, and enjoy the view. But not so many people realize that of the three buildings up there two are part of a museum that has a TON of crazy good antique sculpture… Read More The Capitoline Museums: So sculpture, much good, wow.
Since I spent last post throwing all of the shade at the Vatican Museum, before I get into the rest of the glories of Rome’s many, many museums, I thought I would offer a few alternatives. Sure, the Sistine Ceiling is pretty singular, and Raphael’s Stanze are awfully special. BUT there are a few places throughout the city… Read More Skipping the Vatican Museums? Here are a few places to go instead…
I know, I know. I’m an art historian. I should loooove the Vatican Museum. Because, let’s be honest, there are some insane, insane masterpieces there. But I hate it. HATE. I hate it more that the Met, and more than MoMA, and even more than the Louvre. Why? Why do I hate it so much when there’s the Sistine… Read More Why the Vatican Museum is so, so, sooo Astonishingly Terrible.
It probably surprises no one at this point that I would assert that the Vatican Museums are TERRIBLE. But before I get into the dozens and dozens of reasons why you should never ever go to there, let’s take a moment to appreciate the reasons why people do: And oh yes, there’s that little room called… Read More Oh the Vatican Museums. So Astonishing(ly terrible)