MACRO: Rome’s Contemporary Art Museum. Let’s discuss.

MACRO is Rome’s answer to contemporary art museums. There are two locations: MACRO is in the Salario neighborhood a bit outside of the historical center, but is still seriously easy to get to, while MACRO Testaccio is, as the name implies in Testaccio– one of my favorite neighborhoods in the city– and also rather easy to get… Read More MACRO: Rome’s Contemporary Art Museum. Let’s discuss.

The Villa Farnesina: drag yourself out of bed to enjoy a villa by your lonesome

I’m always surprised by how empty the Villa Farnesina is. It’s so centrally located (right on the edge of Trastevere), it’s got SUCH good stuff (so many Raphaels!), and it’s such a lovely, lovely, lovely space. And yet, every single time I’ve been there, there are crickets it’s so empty. Ok by me, because I… Read More The Villa Farnesina: drag yourself out of bed to enjoy a villa by your lonesome

The Etruscans get No Respect, No Respect. But the Villa Giulia is TOTALLY respectable

If you’ve been following Museum Month(s Strike Back, Return of the Jedi With a Vengeance), you know that I’m a big fan of big, empty, museums. That I’ll eschew the blockbuster in favor of places that are what I call “pleasantly attended” (the Rodin Museum, Gemäldegalerie, and Brera all qualify) If you’re looking for that in… Read More The Etruscans get No Respect, No Respect. But the Villa Giulia is TOTALLY respectable

All the Love for the Castel Sant’Angelo. Lurve too. and Looooooooooooooove

The Castel Sant’Angelo is the backdrop for many, many, many picturesque Roman views over the Tiber, or towards St. Peter’s or whatever fancy scene. So fancy. But though it’s great for its photographic potentialities, I luuuuurve the Castel Sant’Angelo for being a MOST excellent museum/historical experience. I have written about how great it is a… Read More All the Love for the Castel Sant’Angelo. Lurve too. and Looooooooooooooove

The National Museums in Rome: Confusing, but not really. Mostly GREAT.

So, let’s say the Capitoline Museum isn’t really your bag, but you want to see some MOST excellent old stuff. May I suggest one of the branches of the National Roman Museum (Museo Nazionale Romano)? There are four branches of these archaeology museums: the Palazzo Massimo alle Terme, the Palazzo Altemps, the Crypta Balbi, and the… Read More The National Museums in Rome: Confusing, but not really. Mostly GREAT.

Skipping the Vatican Museums? Here are a few places to go instead…

Since I spent last post throwing all of the shade at the Vatican Museum, before I get into the rest of the glories of Rome’s many, many museums, I thought I would offer a few alternatives. Sure, the Sistine Ceiling is pretty singular, and Raphael’s Stanze are awfully special. BUT there are a few places throughout the city… Read More Skipping the Vatican Museums? Here are a few places to go instead…

Why the Vatican Museum is so, so, sooo Astonishingly Terrible.

I know, I know. I’m an art historian. I should loooove the Vatican Museum. Because, let’s be honest, there are some insane, insane masterpieces there. But I hate it. HATE. I hate it more that the Met, and more than MoMA, and even more than the Louvre. Why? Why do I hate it so much when there’s the Sistine… Read More Why the Vatican Museum is so, so, sooo Astonishingly Terrible.